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=Chinese Fashion=

=Ancient Chinese Clothing= = = - (information from http://polaris.gseis.ucla.edu/yanglu/ECC_CULTURE_CLOTHING.HTM) = = Costumes were an important part in Chinese culture for more than 3 thousand years. Each dynasty had its own style, which changed when a new dynasty started. The costumes or style of dress throughout each dynasty represented that era's culture and livelihood.

Qin (221-207 B.C.)

 * During the Qin Dynasty, Emperor Qin introduced the idea of Yin and Yang and the theory of the 5 elements. Those that lived during the Qin Dynasty believed that “they would subdue Zhou dynasty like water extinguishes fire" (Lu, Yang. "Chinese Clothing- 5 thousand years history." __Cultural Essentials; Explore Chinese Culture__. . ). Therefore Zhou Dynasty was symbolized by the color red and Qin black (black was associated with water). Thus, most clothing in Qin dynasty was black and many accessories were red.
 * There was no difference between style of dress between higher officals and commoners. However, you could tell the difference among classes by the color and quality of fabric.
 * There were two types of robes mainly worn. One of them had a diagonal opening in the front, wrapping from the shoulder to the opposite arm. Because of this style, clothing was often long and loose (mens especially).


 * During the Han Dynasty clothing color was depicted by which of the four seasons it was. During the spring clothing would be green. In summer they would be red. In Autumn dress would be yellow and during the winter clothing would be black. However, like in Qin the main color of Han dynasty was red.
 * Many of the clothing styles of Han dynasty were based off of the Qin dynasty.
 * A mans rank in society could be shown by what style of crown he wore. However, dress was the same for every rank. Men wore a short jacket, regular pants, and a short skirt worn outside of their pants.
 * Women wore a short jacket, long pants, with a long intricate belt. Accessories for women were very expensive (gold and silver). They were delicate and indicated which class a woman belonged to.


 * Tang Dynasty was a very prosperious time in chinese history where clothing was the "most outstanding in China's History" (Lu, Yang. "Chinese Clothing- 5 thousand years history." __Cultural Essentials; Explore Chinese Culture__. . ). Women's clothing was especially luxourious. Throughout Tang dynasty dress was constantly changing.
 * Tang style was much less concervative than Qin and Han. Dresses were shorter. Womens outfits were mainly short sleeve shirts and skirts or long skirts with a shawl. Hair was worn in a high bun. Silk shoes became popular as well has large belts (lavishly decorated).
 * Belts were a way of showing rank amongst people. Government officials and generals of the 2nd rank wore a sword or knife as well as jade belts, officials of the 4th and 5th rank wore gold belts, and officials of the 6th and 7th ranks wore silver belts. Commoners carried a small bronze or iron knife.




 * Chinese fashion during song dynasty can be categorized into three main styles.
 * 1) The first was made for the empress, noble concubines, and all women who's rank was in the government. These outfits were extremely fancy and lavish. The fabric used was the nicest and hair styles were unique. Decorations for the hair were important and shoes were often decorated with flowers.
 * 2) The second type of dress was made for the commoners. It was called "formal dress."
 * 3) The third style was much more casual. This type of dress was meant only to be worn at home.


 * Zhi Sun dresses-
 * "Zhi Sun dresses" were worn by all people at celebrations and ceremonies. All the accesories worn with these dresses were color coordinated. There was a variety of material used to make them, thus making them accesable to all classes to wear. Women wore their dresses very long. Therefore, noble women had maids carry the back of their dresses for them when they changed location. Gowns were often red and gold in color and were decorrated with things like fur and silk.
 * Leather clothing and clothing made of sheep skin were very popular.


 * Clothes for women
 * Skirts were very popular, especially those who's colors where lighter. Pleated skirts were popular and skirts were highly decorated.
 * During ming dynasty one kind of cape was very popular to wear, called the "pink cloud cape" (because of the shape of the cape).
 * Clothing for males
 * Men wore robes that usually had round collars (blue in color), black edges, and large sleeves, and a long black fabric belt.
 * satin cloud style robe styles were also popular. These robes were ankle length, the sleeves were long (too long for the individual possibly covering their hands.
 * Red shoes were popular in Ming Dynasty.

Qing Dynasty (A.D. 1644-1911)

 * Machurian-dress style was popular throughout Qing Dynasty. The clothes of the Qing Dynasty were designed like the box-like style of Manchurian dress.
 * Dresses were form fitting and sleeves where tight and short.
 * Collars were large enough they could protect ones face
 * The dress was one peice of cloth that looked rectangular when wore because it did not have a waist.
 * There were a couple of false sleeves for decoration as well as big buttons on one side of the dresses.
 * Womens clothes were categoriezed into three categories: business, formal, and casual
 * Bussiness clothing was worn by nobles and the empress.
 * Formal clothing was worn at ceremonies and weddings
 * Casual dress were functional and used for purpose. These dresses were worn mainly by workers or commoners who wore them because they were practical and could be worn any regular day.

This is a typical dress of a bride in Qing Dynasty.

Foot binding began during Tang Dynasty. It was stayed popular throughout the Song, Ming, and Qing Dynasties as well. It original started as a fad and luxury for women of higher class. Young girls between the ages of 4 and 7 would attempt to stop the growth of their foot because it was "beautiful" to have small feet. They would wrap a bandage around their foot forcing the four smaller toes to grow underneath the sole of the foot. This made their feet narrower and shorter. Each day the bandage was tightened and they were forced to wear smaller and smaller shoes as their feet got smaller. This usually took about 2 years to complete and in the end it left girls with unnatural feet that were completely useless. It made women more dependent on men and they could not work because it was very hard to walk correctly. Women had to walk on the back of their heels. Foot binding became so popular and important to Chinese people that it even became a reason to marry (or not marry) a women. If a woman did not have bound feet a man would not marry her. Finally in 1911 (after having allowed it to go on about 1000 years) foot binding was outlawed during the 1911 Revolution of Sun-Ya-Sen.

Here some pictures of what foot binding looked like.



There are three main types of Chinese clothing: pien-fu, the chang-p’ao, and the shen-i.

 * 1) The Pien-fu in an ancient two-piece ceremonial costume
 * It constists of a long top and either pants or long skirt.
 * Here is an example:

 2. The second type of dress s the Chang-p’ao
 * It is a long dress that extends goes from the shoulders to ankles
 * Here is an example:



3.The shen-i is a mix between the pien-fu and the ch’ang’p’ao.
 * It may appear to be a two piece outfit but it is actually sewn together, making it a one piece outfit.
 * Here is an example:



Modern Chinese fashion is based off of traditional Chinese dress. Now, during formal events it is common to see many men and women in styles of clothing worn throughout the dynasties. Chinese clothing has many classical symbols that started during the Dynasties. These symbols represent the history and culture of China. Symbols that formed during the dynasties were the dragon and the cloud. These symbols are now known throughout the world because they are used on modern clothing. Many dresses have been created based off of their original style but altered to a more modern style.



Here is a modern chinese fashion show from New Years, 2009 at Rogers Center in Toronto! Its filmed by Stan Trac for www.torontotv.net. media type="youtube" key="zB-GSikfsQM" height="340" width="560"

Bibliography:
http://meganaace.tripod.com/id13.html

http://www.chinatownconnection.com/ancient-china-fashion.htm

http://polaris.gseis.ucla.edu/yanglu/ECC_CULTURE_CLOTHING.HTM

http://www.angelfire.com/ca/beekeeper/foot.html

http://www-chaos.umd.edu/history/time_line.html

http://www.kwintessential.co.uk/articles/article/China/Modern-Chinese-Clothing/1933